#Eos backyard dslr full#
#Eos backyard dslr iso#

Don't be afraid to experiment just keep on trying different exposure settings until you obtain the result that works for your particular setup.

#Eos backyard dslr iso#

You can also adjust the ISO sensitivity, decreasing it if the image is overexposed or increasing it if it is underexposed. If the image looks dim (underexposed), try decreasing your shutter speed to 1/500, or slower.

#Eos backyard dslr full#

This way, you'll increase your chances of catching some really good shots.įor example, if you photographed the full moon with a short-focus telescope at an ISO setting of 200 and a shutter speed of 1/1,000 of a second and the resulting image looks washed out (overexposed), try increasing the shutter speed to 1/2,000, or faster. The key is to 'bracket' your exposures, that is, shoot as many images as you can, using various exposure settings. What you see on the LCD screen is exactly what you get. The greatest advantage of digital cameras over film for shooting the moon is that you get instant feedback. Imelda and Edwin used a Canon EOS 5D Mark II DSLR camera at the prime focus of a Takahashi FC-60 refractor to capture this winter scene. The moon was much, much closer - a 'mere' 225,000 miles away. Venus was 134 million miles from Earth at the time, while Mars was 203 million miles away. Although the trio looked close together as viewed along our line of sight, the celestial bodies were actually situated far apart in space. Note the nice 'earthshine' illuminating the moon's dark side. In this cropped photo taken by Imelda Joson and Edwin Aguirre on February 20, Venus appears as a brilliant 'star' on the left, with dimmer Mars above it. You can zoom in on the image at up to 10x magnification to refine the focus. Many DSLR cameras offer 'live-view' mode, which allows you to see what the camera sensor sees through its built-in LCD screen. To obtain sharp images of the moon, focus your telescope/camera combination as best as you can. With consumer DSLRs that use smaller APS-C sensors, the lunar image will appear larger because of cropping of the camera frame. A 500mm telescope will yield a lunar image that's about 5mm across in a DSLR camera with a full-frame, 35mm-format sensor a 1,500mm telescope will produce a 14mm image, and a 2,000mm telescope results in an 18mm image. To get dramatic close-up views of the moon, you'll need a telescope with a focal length of 500 millimeters, or greater. The size of the lunar image in the camera frame will depend on the focal length of the objective (front) lens in refracting telescopes and on the primary (main) mirror in reflecting telescopes. This is the setup they used to obtain many of the moon photos accompanying their article. Imelda Joson and Edwin Aguirre use a custom-made, machined-aluminum adapter to attach their DSLR camera to the Takahashi FS-78 refractor. Be sure to specify the make and model of your telescope and camera body when choosing an accessory. You can buy these accessories from telescope retailers such as Celestron and Orion. DSLR cameras excel in prime-focus (and eyepiece-projection) photography since they have removable lenses, making it easy to use a T-ring and adapter to connect the camera to the telescope focuser. In this method, you attach your camera directly to the telescope, which essentially acts like a superpowerful telephoto lens. You'll also need an electronic 'cable release,' or remote trigger/controller (lower left), so you can operate the camera shutter while minimizing vibrations. To attach your DSLR camera (without the lens) to the telescope's eyepiece focuser, you need a T-ring that matches to your particular camera's lens mount and a prime-focus adapter (lower right) with male T-threads and a standard 1¼-inch barrel that can be inserted into the focuser.